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A LAND ROVER FOR BOSNIA
A year of toil and countless selfless acts of generosity sees a Defender donated to mine clearers in the Balkans by Ian Robinson |
THIS IS a story that covers twelve months and thousands of miles from Gaydon to Canada to the Balkans. It has countless contributors, many, but not all, within the Land Rover fraternity. It has lots of smiles, tears too, some on my birthday, much of which was spent in a Bosnian minefield with some dedicated Land Rover owners, the Dutch army, and a bunch of underpaid, unsung local heroes.
This is also a tale of kindnesses, unsolicited generosity and masses of behind-the-scenes dedication from more than a few, of last-minute frustrations, of hours that stretched to days on the telephone, fax, photocopier and word processor, all culminating in a manic month where Bosnia and Land Rovers seemed to supersede all else in my life. The story has a happy ending, and a big bang, a giant marrow, a few rainbows, and Camels, convoys and a day at the supermarket along the way. Read on, it’s an adventure that only happened because so many of you made it so.
In 2001, a man in Bosnia Herzegovina told me he needed a Land Rover to help him save lives. My girlfriend, Alison, was doing Voluntary Service (VSO) there, and I was delivering books and blankets and looking for a story. This man, Martin Pavic, the regional director of mine clearance operations, was using his old car to coordinate de-mining. Bosnia is littered with thirteen million killer devices following four years of bitter ethnic conflict – half a decade later, two or three children every month are still being blown up.
I came back with my story, showing the vital role of Land Rovers in ordnance disposal. A lot of people read it in LRM last December, including the magazine’s appeal for cash or a vehicle to help Martin.
My goal was around £4000. Then, after that, I needed a big-hearted dealer willing to forgo much of his profit. I also needed to reach the Balkans by November to beat the snow. When a total stranger at a Dartmoor exhibition scribbled me a £40 cheque, then, sympathetic friends in Salisbury gave me £50 and a Devon neighbour raised another £140 at a Tavistock folk cafe, I knew we were on our way. Further support came by telephone from Canada where Robin Craig saw LRM and persuaded his Ottawa Valley club to send a healthy donation.
I then wrote begging letters to every 4x4 outfit in the land; a commendable few replied with money or advice. One such call pointed us towards the Land Rover Marque Day at Gaydon, where we were generously allotted a plot to sell my Camel Trophy photographs, except we couldn’t exhibit from my big Citroen! Into the breach stepped Scotsman Alan Clark, lending his robust expedition Defender that did a Bosnia run last year. Diana Andrews helped me auction donated items to a very receptive crowd; Land Rover Collections and Rimmer Bros put up merchandise, and a strong bond with Tavistock’s Superwinch began when the Customer Service Department gave a reconditioned winch to sell.
It was bought by Mike Robson who has the new Camel Trophy Museum on his Shropshire cattle estate, where the winch now lives. At the museum’s inauguration I was invited to show slides from Mongolian and Patagonian Trophy adventures and seventy guests dug very deep into their pockets to bid for auctioned Camel memorabilia. I drove home with a promise of £2,500, a crowd of new-found friends and the realisation in June that I could be driving to Bosnia before Christmas.
Soon, the funds began accumulating from a variety of often unexpected sources. Folks in my Devon village, Horrabridge, chipped in as did many in Ottery St. Mary. Staying local, the Cornwall and Devon Land Rover Club made us the official charity at the Plymouth ARC National Rally, also donating vehicle parts to sell. LRM allotted us half their stand space, plus a Defender roof rack for the final auction, conducted again by Diana. Here we also sold members’ books donated by my Outdoor Writers’ Guild and two signed editions sent by Col. John Blashford Snell who rafted Range Rovers through the Panamanian jungles of the Darien Gap back in 1972. I was once his photographer in Mongolia. Round the world yachtsman Pete Goss also gave his signed book.
In July, with money in the bank, we went to LD and TC Willett near Grantham to look at ex-army Defenders. Tom had earlier promised an old Series III and, true to his word, gave us an equally attractive discount on a slightly dented, left-hand drive, squaddie’s 90, which logically was more appropriate as the Bosnian de-miners already had three Defenders from a German charity. The deal was struck at £2,500. It also seemed expedient to let Tom’s paintman undertake the refurbishment, adding a few items like roofrack, ladder, worklight and chequerplate, for which we had funds.
Now adopted by the Camel Trophy Owners’ Club, on their Billing stand we displayed big pictures of our new purchase, still in army camouflage, but proof of progress, and people kept giving. Such was the warmth of the Land Rover brethren.
Aware that aid was also needed in Bosnia, whispers of a possible autumn convoy now began to germinate around Camel campfires. Tripping over Freelanders in the Billing dusk landed us in an unlit tent and helpful conversation with drivers who’d done the Bosnia run before. Then we ran into the BARF guys – Neil Newitt’s Balkan Aid Relief Foundation, who already have several aid runs under their cam-belts, from whose convoy protocol we were allowed to lift valuable paragraphs for our own itinerary. Here, too, Yorkshireman David Spirett displayed his tireless supportive efforts by forging a link with David Sneath’s Land Rover Experience. They presented the Appeal with an 8500lbs Superwinch Husky from an Experience Defender and items of Land Rover clothing that would eventually find their way to the mine clearance personnel. Through his Leeds agricultural engineering business, David backed us and also campaigned suppliers, resulting in generous boxes of LR parts, and pieces for the vehicle from RU Motoring and Border Supplies.
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West Country passion?
One June evening I got a message from a Dorset man who had read about me and wanted to help the Appeal. I’m certain Kevin Salter was weaned on Solihull manuals as a child; he owns the Shrubbery Garage near Lyme Regis, lovingly administering to every Land Rover in the district, from the Coastguard to the lord of the manor. His yard is an elephants’ graveyard of practically everything since 1948 and, as usual, he was working on three when I located him. To summarise what is a story in itself, he enrolled considerable local conscripts for a weekend cavalcade of sponsored Land Rovers, distributing collecting jars to prominent 4x4 locations from Axminster to Exmoor. Kevin’s supporters brought in a magnificent £1600... and he renewed his passport with the intention of being convoy mechanic to the Bosnia trip.
Summer seemed to vanish as Alison trawled through east-European bureaucracy that dogged our efforts to help people who we knew needed it. She was used to the anomalies of Bosnian politics but a recent seven year age limit on imported vehicles, and humanitarian food aid being declared illegal were unexpected frustrations. Then there were border manifests, tax waivers, driving documents, export papers and diplomatic letters in Serbo-Croat to assist our passage... even matching the paint colour for our Land Rover seemed a massive hurdle. Worst of all, Martin Pavic, for whom the vehicle was intended, found himself unemployed, again through politics.
no going back
But there was no going back and advice is always available if one looks for it. From a programme on Radio 4, we tracked down Operation Florian, another bunch of Samaritans like BARF – serving British firefighters who are taking decommissioned appliances and equipment to Bosnia and training the local personnel to use them. Station Commander Mike Doherty made the magnanimous offer to include us in their next convoy, and they’d even cover us with their insurance!
In mid-September Tom Willett delivered our 2.5-litre diesel Defender to Exeter, having sorted all the paperwork to give it a brand new identity, complete with Q-plate. Its pristine blue and white livery gleamed in the Devon sun as it reversed off the trailer, fulfilling another moment that I never dreamed would happen.
With so much still to do, we moved the October 4 departure forward a week and threw ourselves into a last-minute local press campaign to fill the vehicle with aid – items needed by elderly Bosnians trying to restart life in bombed villages, with neither roof nor electricity in many cases. The Centre for Civic Cooperation in Livno, where Alison worked, was our local link, run by two intrepid ladies, Sonja Garic and Zulka Baljak. They told us that the villager’s needs were for food, toiletries, bedding and clothes.
On a single Saturday in front of Tavistock Safeway we amassed several trolley-loads of provisions, nearly £200 in cash and a donation from the store. We were full to bursting and things kept coming... bedding delivered to my house, and a clockwork radio and a cheque from Plymouth pensioners.
enough for a Comer shop?
Our public crusade was paralleled by four other far-flung vehicles pledged to accompany us. Two were Camel Club members Lance Dow and his ex-Mundo Mayan Discovery from Cumbria, and Bristolian Tim Cann with medic Paul Brett in a 110 Defender Hi-capacity pick-up that also did the Kalimantan epic. Tim’s 25-box inventory, collected by Scouts, schools and Red Cross, from shampoo to sleeping bags, would easily stock a corner shop, while Lance, similarly inundated, was even offered an entire operating theatre!
Navigating beside Lance was Alison’s ex-VSO colleague, Peter Roberts, who relished the chance at short notice to return to Bosnia, his local knowledge enhancing our team. Kevin Salter enlisted ex-soldier Steve Mackinney in his red 90 and Londoners Don Potter and Dale Shearer with lots of carrying space in their County 110 completed the deputation. Kevin gathered cash and blankets from garage customers and Axminster Primary School while Steve extracted considerable monies from patrons in his girlfriend’s pub. Don meanwhile had firms paying him to name them on his vehicle. In the same way, Exeter main dealer, Matfords, paid our fuel costs and a Norwich Union Direct underwriter, who loves Land Rovers, gave us free insurance cover.
Every adventure has a cliffhanger and ours came in the shape of a cracked cylinder head a week before departure. Tom insisted on recovering the vehicle to Lincolnshire. What seemed like an eternity was in fact five long days for all of us while a replacement head was sourced, fitted and tested – necessary work, but a dilemma for those who had to be back in England to meet job commitments that couldn’t be deferred. Tom redelivered the vehicle at daybreak on Saturday and we postponed the ferry yet again. |
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Then Superwinch’s Matthew Newton singlehandedly fitted the winch, Kevin serviced the vehicle throughout Sunday, we packed it all day Monday with blankets, pasta, shampoo, soap and Land Rover spares and drove overnight to catch a P&O Dover-Zeebrugge 4.30am ferry... we were finally on the road, with the new radio still in its box to be fitted out there.
lost in Europe
I love driving across Europe, even when it’s the quickest, shortest route to reach our destination. Autumn nevertheless presented us with memorable sights... skeletal trees on a misty German skyline as the quick autobahn rose above ploughed, patchwork fields; high on a distant hill among a golden yellow forest nestled a shining white church. Around Frankfurt, with Alison driving, I neglected my duties and fell asleep; with no CB, we got separated from the others in torrential rain, dense traffic and a spaghetti network of fast carriageways; I never thought I’d praise a mobile phone, which effected a reunion at Koblenz by nightfall.
Our two welcome overnights were camped at service areas that offer everything from strudels to showers, and even ladies of the night! Apart from using a little water, Kevin’s daily checks of our vehicle were thankfully uneventful. Crews crawled into a variety of cosy bivouacs while we tested a Caranex tent from Scotland, purchased at discount for the de-miners’ eventual use.
Austrian leaves were beautiful in the autumn sunshine, easily rivalling New England. A scarlet hot air balloon hung in the blue sky like a big ripe tomato – well worth the few Euros compulsory border taxation to cross the country. Despite our vehicle’s age, we flew along but, on some of the inclines, lacked the energy of the newer Defenders; big trucks sometimes flashed and threatened us mercilessly, even in the slow lane, until we eventually outran them again.
“Are those mountains or clouds?” asked Alison, pointing to the snowy Alps on the horizon. Shortly after, a long long tunnel swallowed us. In Slovenia you get your first flavour of the Balkans as vineyards fringe the contours and driving standards deteriorate, then get worse. Similarly into Croatia we experienced no border problems whatsoever, helped by us going through first and capitalising on Alison’s knowledge of the language... “We’re going to Bosnia to visit old friends... we’re all together... Land Rover club on holiday...” etc.
We did, however, encounter our first examples of lunatic Balkan driving that was to shock our guys for the remainder of the trip, usually characterised by suicidal overtaking on blind bends. But our border luck was to hold right into Bosnia with not even a cursory examination of our illegal food cargoes. “Camel Trophy very good!” exclaimed one Bosnian official, almost apologetically extracting Euros from us for mandatory insurance. Driving through, I’m sure many mistook us for the Bosnian Camel Trophy.
The lovely foliage is sadly marred by the proliferation of roofless villages that still scar the landscape, many unapproachable because of mines and, in Drvar, where we’d brought English books for the school, the unrepaired destruction suggested the war was barely over.
tearful moment
Exactly seventy-two hours after leaving Devon, I had tears in my eyes as I led our string of Land Rovers towards the early evening lights of Livno, our little market town destination. We were welcomed with typical Bosnian hospitality and put into the local hotel to begin a remarkable three days that was to move us all.
The Federal Office of Civil Protection had laid on a packed itinerary for us and turned out in force to receive their new Land Rover, witnessed by reporters from two national newspapers. Handing over the keys was an emotional moment on my 54th birthday and I was barely able to convey the words to the journalists that many, many people back in England from all walks of life, including a lot of Land Rover owners, had contributed in all manner of ways to make this gift possible. Supervisor Darinko Brnic explained that the extra truck will give them a vehicle for peripheral duties, meaning their core work of de-mining isn’t disrupted. In summer, our Caranex tent will enable them to camp at distant clearance sites, instead of long drives back each evening.
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A brilliant rainbow arched over burned out farmhouses as we drove along the valley towards an orchard where the Civil Protection team was hard at work. A hundred metres from a derelict farmhouse they’d already uncovered five mines near the main highway. I’d had the tour before but it was no less poignant as a de-miner demonstrated how they search the grass, centimetre by centimetre, with a simple metal prodder for the hidden peril that doesn’t take prisoners.
Our education continued as we headed for a remote mountain site to detonate ordnance handed into police stations during a recent amnesty. The medic scribbled down our blood groups while Stipe Bulic, my guide last year, unloaded rocket grenades, armour piercing rounds, and an anti-tank mine with the respectful deftness that any craftsman handles his tools. He was hospitalised a few months back with an arm injury following a detonation mishap.
While Stipe prepared the explosive charges, we drove off to spectate from a far hill, ironically, only a few metres from the grave of a 27-year-old soldier killed in the war. Even walkie talkie communication didn’t prepare us for the massive bang that sent a shockwave rippling across the peat, spreading a big grey cloud across the now-redundant battlefield.
giving it all away
Saturday was aid distribution day. We followed Sonja’s Renault 4 along a potholed country road past a desolation row of shattered dwellings punctuated by the occasional new roof. Elderly people came out, with a smile and an embrace, to receive what we had brought them. As they unpacked clockwork radios given by Robert Dyas stores and carried boxes of food and blankets from the vehicles, glasses appeared, which were quickly filled with rakije, the potent local brew, along with cheese and homebaked bread.
Village spokesman Vlado, who had worked for the post office and once owned a herd of cows, spoke emotionally of the past to our group. He explained how they had lived just like us before the war, and could again be self-sufficient with the help of building materials, electricity and some cows. Best of all, he proudly showed me huge carrots and marrows in his garden, grown from the donated seeds that I took out last year. Most of these people are Serb returnees, usually elderly, who have come back to try and start again after the tanks came through, forcing evacuation. One man only has his bathroom intact, showing us that he’d cosily installed his bunks in there to brave the winter. His face said it all as he unwrapped a clockwork radio.
On the third day, we abandoned the tarmac at the invitation of an S-FOR Dutch Lieutenant (NATO Stabilisation Force) who sensed an off-road lust amongst us. From his fortified base we followed his Mercedes through rebuilt mountain villages, stopping occasionally for first-hand accounts of death and destruction where he’d witnessed the war’s aftermath in 1997. At the timbered snowline, shell cases still littered the forest floor as we viewed front line bunkers and trenches where men must have almost frozen through three winters of pointless conflict.
Tall firs with shrapnel scars and mine warning signs blocked the light from woodland clearings where you still wouldn’t want to walk your dog. Beyond the trees we followed twisting gravel roads, threading up the snowy mountain that once boasted reserve ski slopes for the Sarajevo Winter Olympics, then brewing S-FOR coffee at 5500ft below a giant TV mast. A final stop high on the asphalt descent was to view neatly spaced potholes on a hairpin bend – they once held landmines that stopped you nicely within range of a hidden machine-gun nest.
Leaving for home was hard. The others returned via the Croatian coast and across the Dolomites, having more adventures with heavy rain and a troublesome wheelbearing. Alison and I stayed an extra day to clean the vehicle, remove the stickers, sort the paperwork, say farewells and give Stipe and Darinko a couple of Land Rover Experience fleeces – two guys having a hard time believing that there are people in this world who would send them a Land Rover... and we still have a few quid in the account for Vlado’s cows, and a chainsaw!
There was also some discussion about the need for a tractor...
The Bosnian Land Rover Appeal would particularly like to thank the following:
Richard Howell-Thomas
LD & TC Willett Ltd and Bruce at L.R. Spares Ltd
Camel Trophy Owners Club, and Mike Robson
David Sneath at Land Rover Experience
Shrubbery Garage, Rousdon, Lyme Regis
Tavistock Tyres and Exhausts
David Spirett Motor and Agricultural Engineers, Leeds
Norwich Union Direct
Cornwall & Devon Land Rover Club, and Ted Ivory
Bux 4x4
Vectis Land Rover Club
Ottawa Valley Land Rover Club, Canada
101 Forward Control Club
Operation Florian
Land Rover Experience West Country
Waterways 4x4, Tavistock
Brookwells Centre, Bovey Tracey
Mike Harding Land Rovers, Bovey Tracey
Superwinch Service Repair Dept. Tavistock, and Matthew Newton
Rimmer Bros, Lincoln
LRM Bookspeed
LRC Collections
Denis Bourne (ARC)
Ray Bills, Arbil Ltd
David Bowyer
Lonely Planet
Tom Cat Motorsport
Exmoor Trim
R U Motoring, Leeds
Border Moldings (UK) Ltd, Shropshire
Ross Floyd
Colin Baxter Photography, Scotland
Alan Clark, Survival Logistics Scotland
Robert Dyas stores
Axminster County Primary School
Tim Fry Landrovers Salvage
Caranex, Oban
Mark at Framework, Tavistock
M.J. Fews Ltd, Gloucester
Bristol Profiles Windows & Conservatories
Clinton Burhouse Rock Shop, Ambleside
Fulton's Land Rover, Workington
Matford Land Rover, Exeter
Gaydon Motor Heritage Centre
Harveys Maps, Scotland
Sally Lingard, Robin Toyne, Ian Kent-Robinson, Leonard March and Lionel Turk
Steve Roberts for co-signing the cheques
...and the many others who so generously helped us along the way. |
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